The result is a coating that is more protective and stable over time than a drying oil, and tougher and more chemical resistant than a natural resin applied by dissolving it in solvent. The oil reacts with oxygen to harden the film. Traditionally 'varnish' referred to a co-polymer of resin and oil that was made by cooking them together, and mixing the resulting tar-like goo with a 'vehicle', such as turpentine, to render it spreadable. This is one of those nomenclature issues where different people use the same terms to mean different things. I’m of the camp that a hard thin film Using modern finishes works fine and provides ease of application, durability and doesn’t take away tone if u learn the tricks to apply a thin film. ![]() Because of the higher solids and thicker film, some / most think it is a tone sucker. And because they usually cross link, they dry fast and hard and save spray and polish labor. They have high solids, meaning you can spray a thicker film faster and need less solvent. “Poly” finish is also somewhat generic meaning they could be polyester, polyester urethane, or a polyester acrylic blend.they almost always need a catalyst (sometimes just moisture in the air, sometimes a separate crosslinker). It was referred to as varnish, mostly because it was applied in a very thin film. I sold water based thermoset polyester / acrylic coatings for the outside of beverage cans for 35 + years. They don’t really chemically knit or cure, so the dry film properties are not totally stable. Nitro lacquer is considered to the the first commercial synthetic finish.These finishes depend on evaporation or “dryers” / metal catalysts to dry. Although the term “lacquer” usually refers to nitrocellulose lacquer (technically a synthetic made from nitric acid and gun cotton), the term originally referred to a thin clear coating made from laq, which is insect protein, i.e., bugs. Varnish is usually made from natural resins dissolved in a thinner. The terms are antiquated and can have generic, broad meanings. I'm sure that others here may have more to say on this, but that's my story and I'm stickin' to it. For full disclosure, I've never used poly. I always use nitrocellulose on any projects that I've done. I'm aware that some American manufacturer may use it, but I don't know why. It's also more amenable to high volume manufacturing since it sets up quickly and gives a good gloss without much in the way of buffing. It's less affected by climates and it's extremely durable. I think that poly is often used on import guitars and mandolins where they are destined for world markets, some of which are very cold of very hot or arid or excessively humid. ![]() What are the advantages of using it? Sorry if it's been asked before. My mandolin feels like it is being held back by the poly finish so for the life of me, i can't understand why the companies use poly over nitro. ![]() Nitrocellulose lacquer products should not be used with acrylic lacquers.May 12, 2020My washburn m3swk mando is all solid wood, as are guitars made by other companies. Lacquer products are flammable! They cannot be shipped outside the USA nor shipped by air within the USA. Keep in mind there are many application variables: your spray gun adjustments, PSI used, how heavy the coats are applied, number of coats, and desired thickness on your instrument. One can goes a long way! One quart will finish: Todd Sams, StewMac R+D Supervisor and builder of Sams GuitarsĬolorTone Lacquer works best when applied over ColorTone Vinyl Sealer, ensuring maximum flexibility and a more even build when spraying. "I find the Modern Clear will reinforce or even enhance the purple/blue hues of Indian Rosewood, whereas the Traditional Aged Clear will tone down the purples and give the instrument a warmer, slightly amber color." This finish will not age and yellow at the same rate as our Traditional Aged lacquer, meaning it will stay water clear much longer. Modern Clear lacquer creates an ultra clear finish without altering or dimming the color of your instrument, perfect for preserving the natural or stained color of tonewoods. It is the ideal choice for touching up a vintage guitar. Traditional Aged is a clear lacquer that has a very slight amber cast and over time it will develop a traditional, warm vintage look on your instrument. It's a hard, durable finish that's more flexible than standard furniture lacquer, allowing for the natural expansion and contraction that occurs when a guitar is exposed to humidity and temperature changes.ĬolorTone Lacquer is ready to spray with no thinning required, for faster finish build-up in multiple coats. View All WOODSTAX - Shop Tonewood by the PieceĬolorTone is specially formulated for the needs of stringed instruments. ![]() View All All Hardware + Parts by Instrument.
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